Mama MálagaPostsCelebrations & FairsWhat to expect of Christmas in the Costa del Sol

Traditional Christmas and New Year in the Costa del Sol

December 14, 2024

Have you ever wondered how we celebrate Christmas in the Costa del Sol? I’ll tell you all about it in this post. But before we start, let me warn you: it is a huge celebration, filled with lights, colors, music, joy and activities everywhere you look. It also lasts 40+ days, is collectively made and very well organized. It is amazing!

The many associations that belong to the different towns of the Costa del Sol organize, in full or in part, different events. These are religious associations connected to the local churches or brotherhoods, cultural associations, dance and music schools that take the opportunity to promote their services, as well as the senior citizens associations, gathered around the active participation centers, and the commercial associations, that promote markets and some of the parades. In Marbella, the neighborhood associations are also heavily invested. On top of it all, come the Town Halls and their subdivisions (delegations) that coordinate and tie the events together. You see, Christmas in the Costa del Sol is really a collectively made celebration!

All forces combined make each year and town unique. Every year brings new surprises, which may or not be added to the list of traditions for the following years. Let’s take a closer look at what is already part of the traditional celebrations of Christmas in the Costa del Sol, so you know what you can expect.

It all starts with a program

Around the end of November, each town publishes their Christmas program on their official websites. These are lengthy programs that gather all Christmas related events that are being prepared by the different associations of each city, plus those that are prepared by the Town Hall. The programs list all public Christmas events of a given town, in Spanish, informing briefly, for each event, what is happening, where and when. You can see examples of such programs in the related posts below – I collect them, translate each into English and post the English version of the program on the blog! 🙂

Cover of the Christmas in San Pedro Alcantara 2024 program

The notable exception is Mijas, that tends to prepare several events just as the other cities, but do not combine them in a program. The traditional Christmas events are all there, regardless. Program or not, in every single town of the Costa del Sol, Christmas season does not happen or start – it inaugurates. Yep, it’s a big deal!

Inauguration and switching on of the Christmas lights

The Christmas season is inaugurated in each town following a rather standardized pattern: there is the switching on of the Christmas illumination, followed by a speech by a notable local citizen, often followed by a party. The local authorities – the mayor and counselors – are also present at the event.

Christmas in the Costa del Sol - Benalmadena

The moment when the lights go on for the first time is much anticipated. The cities start to put up the Christmas lights around October, and during November everywhere we go there are Christmas lights – but they are off. Once they inaugurate, the main streets and squares become lively and colorful. A lot of people gather to see the lights go on for the first time in the season, and to enjoy the show. After this first day, lights are turned on every evening and off early morning throughout the season, which lasts up to January 06.

Christmas in the Costa del Sol - December in Torremolinos

The inauguration of the Christmas season happens traditionally on the last Friday of November, though it is completely up to the towns to decide it, and variations do occur. The inauguration shows, location and time are, of course, informed in the program – that is, if the Town Hall has already released the program, which sometimes happen a few days after the season has already inaugurated!

Christmas trees in the Costa del Sol

In the plural, dear reader. Because you won’t find just one Christmas tree in no city, town, nor pueblo – there are always a few. Of course, it is likely to be a main one, probably in a place of great confluence of people, but most areas will have their own as well.

Christmas in the Costa del Sol - inside a Christmas tree

Christmas in the Costa del Sol - Christmas tree

A few Christmas trees in the Costa del Sol. The top left one is in Torremolinos, the others in Benalmadena.

The Christmas trees become lit up together with the other Christmas lights, and the towns tend to vary the drawings on the structure from one year to the following. Some trees allow people to take cool pictures inside the Christmas tree itself – even the Christmas trees are fun in the Costa del Sol!

Nativity Scenes all around

Another Christmas in the Costa del Sol staple is the Municipal Nativity Scene. During the Christmas season, the towns tend to display a large and detailed nativity scene (a representation of the birth of Christ), prepared, usually, in coordination with or by one or more local religious Brotherhoods or churches. These scenes tend to be displayed either in the city center or in one of the town’s cultural centers.

Benalmadena’s Municipal Nativity Scene, for instance, is displayed in Plaza Pueblosol, in the city center, in a structure built just for it. It measures about 20m² and is quite detailed. It is more than just a Nativity Scene; in reality, it’s more like a Bethlehem diorama that contains, among other many scenes, a nativity scene. People go around the diorama to absorb all its details.

Christmas in the Costa del Sol - nativity scene in Benalmadena — The nativity scene in Benalmadena’s Nativity Scene!

The Municipal one is certainly not the only nativity scene in a town. Practically every church, brotherhood and many of the cultural places also display their own – it is associated with Christmas almost as much as the Christmas Tree itself. Moreover, there are even live nativity scenes, where the local citizens take the roles of the Bethlehem citizens of the time when Christ was born!

Christmas markets

Oh, so good. As you walk along admiring the Christmas lights, there’s nothing better than a good Churros to go, some hot beverage (glögg!) and even a last-minute gift to the people back home – all goodies you can find in the cute stalls of the traditional Christmas markets that are part of the celebration in most towns of the Costa.

Christmas in the Costa del Sol - market in Benalmadena

Not all the stalls in the Christmas markets are Christmas-related, though. There is some variation. In Fuengirola, most stalls are on theme and are displaced along a square (Plaza de la Constitución), giving it a little village feel. Fuengirola also innovates bringing artificial snow to the market, which makes it even more special!

Christmas in the Costa del Sol - market in Fuengirola

Christmas parades

Every celebration in the Costa del Sol has at least one parade, and Christmas is no exception. These tend to be relatively short during Christmas, and can have a variety of themes. They are often oriented to kids, with dancers in cartoon costumes jugglers, stilt walkers and Santa Claus’s helpers. They are lovely; small kids and adults enjoy it best.

Christmas music

There are plenty of Christmas music events going on in the Costa del Sol and the best part is that none includes Mariah Carrey. Spanish culture is so musically rich, with so much variation, that you may not hear the same song twice (except for Feliz Navidad / prospero año y felicidad, because that one plays all the time). Christmas-themed Flamenco could be a whole subgenre of Flamenco (maybe it is).

Among the musical events, the ones we see more often in public spaces are Pastorals, Candelas and Zambombas. They are each special on their own way:

Pastorals

Pastorals are related to either a church or to a Brotherhood. They are a mix of choir and instruments group, that sing Spanish villancicos (Christmas carols) and other traditional songs.

Candelas

Candelas are beautiful both visually and musically. They are Flamenco shows that take place around a bonfire – the candela (literally: candle). In the cold of December, the idea of hearing a Flamenco guitar by the fire is extremely appealing!

A Candela Navideña (Christmas Candela) in Benalmadena

Zambombas

Zambombas are extremely popular, probably because they are generally the most festive of the musical events. 😉 Their choice of repertoire is more livelier, meant to make people move. Not dance music, but the same idea.

A Zambomba flamenca which, ironically, doesn’t use a Zambomba!

Besides these, there are many presentations that take place in auditoriums and theaters, and the Malaga Philharmonic Orchestra usually greets us with some beautiful concerts.

Christmas Food

Food is present in the Christmas market stalls and in the stalls built around traditional music presentations that take place in open spaces. The most traditional in these stalls are pastries; for more substantial meals, there are the restaurants, many of which create special menus for the Christmas season.

There are all kinds of Christmas menus; some served only on Christmas day, some only on Christmas eve (which in Spanish is called nochebuena – literally: good night – !) some to be picked up ahead and so on. The important thing to keep in mind is that if you want to have a special Christmas meal in a restaurant, you have to book ahead. I have made a list of restaurants that are serving Christmas meals in 2024; take a look; it can be a good starting point!

Santa Claus Village

Most towns set up a way for kids to meet Santa Claus. There will be a small house, with Santa Claus inside (and a big line outside); kids enter with their parents, talk, take pictures and leave. It is usually called Santa’s house or Santa’s village.

There can be attractions for kids around the village, either full-time or, most commonly, on a few days. These can be workshops, theater, circus pocket shows, magician shows, balloon twisting, face painting or something along those lines, to entertain small kids.

Senior activities

Every town in the Costa del sol has Active Participation Centers (CPA, Centro de Participación Activa) which are centers dedicated to the welfare of the population above 60 years old. During Christmas, some of these centers create their own Christmas events, usually around meals and music or dance shows, to entertain and include their associates at the festivities.

Christmas Sports

Did you expect this one? I didn’t. But having translated some 10 or more Christmas programs so far, I always notice there are several sport competitions going on during the Christmas season, and they make it into the program. My guess is that the sports associations also want to contribute to their town’s Christmas. And why not? Sports are a big deal in the Costa del Sol! Check around and you may find fencing tournaments in Torremolinos, the traditional Turkey Race in Benalmadena (where people, not turkeys, run in costumes), jiu jitsu in Fuengirola, races in Marbella and gymkhanas in Estepona, just to name a few.

Surprises

Expect the unexpected, dear reader. Every year the towns innovate and add a bit more to the Christmas programs. Estepona has a Cheese Fair – it’s already traditional, but quite surprising (and welcome!) – Malaga and Benalmadena have been displaying video mappings (like in the video below); pastry contests, workshops, a crocheted Christmas tree in Torremolinos – anything can happen. The element of surprise adds some variation to the tradition and is a traditional element in itself!

Christmas’ eve and day

Locals tend to celebrate Christmas at home, with family. Many Spaniards that have family in the Costa del Sol, but live elsewhere, come during the festive season to meet their loved ones. That’s why Christmas is also high season in the Costa del Sol!

But the Costa is also home to people of many nationalities, and not everybody can have their family together during the season. Many travelers or smaller families opt to celebrate Christmas in one of the local restaurants that open on the date – much easier to prepare and surrounded by people on the same vibe.

Christmas does not finish on the 25th of December, though. In the Costa del Sol, it lasts until January 6, which used to be the date when Spanish kids would open their Christmas gifts till a few decades ago. The tradition, currently, is that kids get gifts on December 24 or 25, and then, again, some more on January 6. While the ones in December are toys, the ones on January are more school related – books, backpacks, clothes – or just chocolates.

New Year in the Costa del Sol

If the night of Christmas eve (December 24) is called nochebuena in Spanish, New Year’s Eve is nochevieja (old night). Tradition has it that one should eat 12 grapes before midnight – during the 12 clock bell strikes – to guarantee a good year ahead. Quite difficult. Try not to choke! I’m sure we can get by with 12 halves of grapes.

There isn’t much going on in terms of fireworks, unfortunately. Some hotels do have firework displays, some individuals do it on their own, but I see it happening less and less – I think it is a shame. Most people spend New Year’s Eve at home, with family, but there are several places that host New Year’s parties in the Costa del Sol. Just as with Christmas restaurants, you would have to book ahead, as such places tend to fill up fast.

The Three Kings from the East

For some Spaniards, the Three King’s Day is as important as Christmas – or even, it is Christmas. Costa del Sol cities celebrate the occasion with a big (and beautiful, colorful) parade for the kids. This parade usually happens on January 05 (and January 06 is a national holiday).

Lights representing the 3 Kings, as part of the Christmas decorations in Torremolinos

The 3 Kings arrive in the city either by boat or by helicopter (in Fuengirola), then are received by the mayor and later, take central stage at the 3 Kings Parade, in which candies are thrown from the parade’s floats to those that come to watch the event.

It is beautiful, very popular and can’t get more traditional, but I, as a foreigner, do have two remarks about this parade: 1) the candies are hard, and they are thrown with quite some strength in order to reach the kids on the back. It hurts, and you, as an adult watching over your kid, will be inevitably hit multiple times – there’s nowhere to hide. 2) Kids are all over the floor collecting candies, so adults moving out of the fire zone put many little hands at risk.

If you don’t have kids crazy about this parade, I’d recommend negotiating – give them candies on the condition that you both can enjoy the parade from a safe distance, not trying to collect the little rocks. You’d both enjoy a beautiful event, have better candies and no injuries.

Kiddo’s (one and only) candy collection on the 3 Kings Parade. The candies are harder than they look.

Conclusion

In a way, you could expect Christmas in the Costa del Sol would be a big deal. The towns in the area pride themselves in organizing beautiful celebrations; that, coupled with the Catholic traditions very much alive in Spain, would already give a clue that Christmas would be special. Still, 40 days long is perhaps more than expected, right? But the towns do need it to be long to fit all the activities that the different associations of the towns plan. It is fantastic to have so much of something great, and so much local participation.

Now you may be wondering which Costa del Sol town does the best Christmas. Personally, I find the lights in Torremolinos tend to be the best; Fuengirola wins my vote on the market category and the kids’ parades in Benalmadena are super adorable – I like it more than most kids, but there are adults that enjoy it even more!!

I think there is nothing like going out with family and coming back home easily – no transportation involved; just go for a walk, see beautiful lights and a spectacular music show, have some churros with chocolate and head back home at ease – 40 days in a row. 🙂 The best Christmas is, indeed, the one you spend with your loved ones, and I should add, close to your home, hotel or holiday rental. All Costa del Sol towns prepare great Christmas – they are all magical and there is no wrong choice here.